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HONG KONG - THE FRAGRANT HARBOUR - ONLY CHANGE IS CERTAIN
Honk Kong - The Journey from Fishing Village to Asian Tiger City
The one thing you can be sure of is that nothing lasts forever – that only change is certain. Hong Kong is a city that demonstrates that fact very well.
The Hong Kong of yesteryear was a very different city from the modern Hong Kong of today. If you spend a little time flipping through early photographs of the city from the last quarter of the 19th century, it is hard to believe that it is even the same city.
Hong Kong was originally just a small fishing village. The burning of incense in factories in the Aberdeen area gave rise to its name which means “fragrant harbour”. British export of opium to China led to the Opium Wars following which – on 9th June 1898 – the UK signed a 99-year lease agreement giving them control over the New Territories, northern Kowloon and 235 surrounding islands, for a period of 99 years.
During the 20th century, rapid economic growth turned Hong Kong into a thriving British Crown Colony. The wealthy colonials chose to make their home up in Victoria Peak – the coolest area of the city. They were originally carried up and down the steep hill in sedan chairs.
I took the photos below from exhibits in the fascinating displays at the Sky 100 Observation Deck up on the 100th floor of the International Commerce Centre. You can get 360 degree panoramic views of Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong Island and beyond from the Observation Deck – but only if the weather is good. All too often, Hong Kong is covered in a haze, which frustratingly obscures the views. The positive side of that is that I spent more time than I otherwise would have browsing through the exhibition material on display, which is fascinating.
Gradually, the number of Rolls Royces started to exceed the number of rickshaws in Hong Kong. The advent of the Peak Tram made travel up and down the hill much easier and the beloved Star Ferry carried passengers to and fro between Hong Kong and Kowloon. Eventually, a tunnel was built under the sea linking Kowloon and Hong Kong and the city began its transformation into one of the wealthiest cities in the world.
Several of the original colonial buildings can still be seen in the Old Town – strangely juxtaposed against the modern skyscrapers.
In the aftermath of World War II, rapid population growth and economic development turned Hong Kong into a global financial center and shipping hub – one of the “Asian Tiger” economies. It was during this “golden age” that the spectacular skyline we see today began to take shape and Victoria Harbour started to shrink as a result of ever expanding landfills.
Inevitably, all good things must come to an end and the period of borrowed time eventually ran out. Hong Kong‘s handover to China in 1997 marked the end of British rule and the beginning of its current status as a Special Administrative Region (SAR) under the “one country, two systems” principle. This was a political masterpiece allowing Hong Kong, in theory, to run its own show for the next 50 years. The British flag was lowered for the last time, Chris Patten and (then) Prince Charles sailed away on the royal yacht, and the red pillar boxes were all painted green.
New stamps and coins were issued – without the Queen’s head. The flag for what would become the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region was designed with a bauhinia flower blooming on it. An ordinance sternly stated it must always be smaller and less prominent when flown next to the national flag of China. Hong Kong entered a new and uncertain era.
Kai Tak airport – famous for the hair raising 47-degree right-hand turn required to execute a touchdown landing on the airport’s large orange and white checkerboard – was turned into a cruise terminal. A modern airport far from town took its place.
Today’s Hong Kong is a unique paradox. English is still Hong Kong’s official language. No visa is required – unless you are Chinese. Hong Kong remains a freeport with no tax on foreign imported products – no taxes are paid to China.
As I write, we are just over half way through the 50 year “one country, two systems’ period and for sure, the only thing that is certain is that Hong Kong is changing – fast. It would be fascinating to visit again in 2047 when the second “time’s up” bell will sound for Hong Kong. I will be 84 by then – I hope I can still make it to the top of Victoria Peak – if I am still allowed in, that is.
Hong Kong - Tips for Future Travellers
Getting around in Hong Kong
Purchasing an Octopus Card – an electronic stored-value ticket – is a good idea. It is accepted on most public transport and takes the hassle out of purchasing individual tickets.
Day and Night
Like many cities, Hong Kong is a different place after sunset. Seeing the famous skyline light up after dark is a memorable experience. A spectacular light show signalling that it’s time to go out and enjoy yourself usually starts at around 8pm.
Good places to enjoy the night time views include Victoria Peak and the ICC Building – 360 degree Sky 100 Observation Deck at the ICC Building.
If you want to gaze at the light show while you eat though, I can recommend the Nanhai No. 1 Restaurant.. They serve fabulous Cantonese cuisine and the view is thrown in for free.
Highlights
Afternoon Tea at The Peninsula Hotel
Of course, you are going to go up to the top of Victoria Peak – probably by day and at night and who can resist the Sky 100 Observation Deck?
Something you might not think about doing but we found rather fun is to take afternoon tea at the world famous Peninsula Hotel.
You could say that The Peninsula is just another hotel, but I love to think about the history of the place and all the changes it has witnessed over the years since the “Grand Dame of the Far East” first opened in 1928.
Back in the day, The Peninsula held concerts on Sundays, nightly dinners on the terrace and twice weekly dinners in the Rose Room. Dinner dances took place every night and Afternoon Tea Dances were a regular occurrence. It was one of THE places to be seen in town – you would have been quite likely to bump into Charlie Chaplin or a Hollywood movie star there.
During WW2, the Governor of Honk Kong surrendered in person at the Japanese headquarters on the third floor of The Peninsula. The Governor was confined for two months in one of the hotel suites before being transferred to a prison in Shanghai. The resort was then briefly renamed “Tōa Hotel” and the rooms were reserved for Japanese officers and high-ranking dignitaries. After the War, The Peninsula was returned to Britain and things got back to normal – and thankfully afternoon teas were served there once again.
As I enjoyed my delightful cup of English Breakfast Tea, I couldn’t help thinking what life might have been like in Hong Kong – and the rest of the world – if WW2 had turned out differently? I felt very grateful for the sacrifices made for the freedoms many of us enjoy today.
Since December 2006, The Peninsula has had a fleet of 14 long wheelbase Rolls Royce Phantoms, painted in the hotel’s signature green. It was the largest single order ever placed with Rolls Royce in the history of the company. You will usually find some of them parked on The Peninsula forecourt – just as they always have been.
The Longest Outdoor Covered Escalator in the World
Hong Kong’s Central-Mid-Levels Escalator system is the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world. It spans over 800 meters (2,600 feet) and traverses an elevation of over 135 meters. The system was built to reduce traffic congestion in the area and has become a popular tourist attraction.
Pottinger Street - The Stone Slabs Street
It’s fun to visit Pottinger Street – or the Stone Slabs Street as it is often known because it is paved unevenly in granite stone. It was named in 1858 after Henry Pottinger – Governor of Hong Kong between 1843 and 1844. The street offers a unique glimpse into Hong Kong’s colonial past.
Hoi Chi Minh's Exercise Yard - Victoria Prison
A visit to Victoria Prison (names after Queen Victoria) in Old Bailey Street is interesting. Vietnamese leader (1945 – 1969) Ho Chi Minh was one of the prison’s most notable prisoners. He came to Hong Kong in 1930 to escape prosecution by the French authorities in Vietnam. He was arrested by the Hong Kong police in 1931. In his journal, he describes how prisoners were only allowed outside in anarrow courtyard for 15 minutes a day. Hemmed in by towering. gloomy prison walls, he felt as though he was pacing at the bottom of a well.
Lowlights
There is a lot to love about Hong Kong, but you can also see why there is a new running joke there. Locals mock their city for losing its status as the darling of global capitals. As one joked: “it is the newest UNESCO world heritage site”.
I can see what they mean. In 2024, Hong Kong experienced a significant number of tourist arrivals, reaching around 44.5 million. The city’s population is approximately 7.41 million. This means there were roughly 6 tourists for every 1 inhabitant in Hong Kong. Much as it is fun to look at some of the old colonial architecture and reflect on the history of Hong Kong, the city today clearly has many challenges. If you raise your eyes just a little above the busy shop fronts at street level, you will see the cramped living conditions that are home to so many people here.
The average living space per person in Hong Kong is quite small, with the median per capita floor area of accommodation being about 172 square feet. This is significantly less than the government’s target of 215 to 237 square feet per person. A large number of people live in subdivided flats, which are often very small indeed – sometimes less than 70 square feet.
Hygiene standards are questionable in some areas and Temple Street Market at night is more of a tacky hawker’s market – complete with prostitutes – than anything else.
Give it a Miss
I have already alluded to the seedy side of Temple Street Market and – in my view – it isn’t worth your time to visit. Markets always have an appeal though and you can’t help being intrigued by The Yau Ma Tei Jade Hawker Bazaar – otherwise knows as the Jade Market.. To be honest though, it is a real disappointment. It houses row up row of “souvenirs” and many vendors clamouring to part you from your Hong Kong dollars. In my view – it is a definite “Give it a Miss”.
Another thing I definitely didn’t develop a taste for is Hong Kong’s silk stocking milk tea. Black tea is brewed for a longer period than usual and then a technique called “pulling” (repeatedly pouring the tea back and forth) is used to extract a strong, dark flavour. Mixed with condensed milk, it is – well in my view – just foul! I will stick with the real thing at The Peninsula I think?!
Interestingly, the mixed drink “tea and coffee” in Hong Kong is called Yuenyeung – also known as “Yinyong,” or more simply “Mandarin Duck tea”. It is made by mixing a strong Hong Kong style milk tea with coffee. The name “Yuenyeung” refers to the Mandarin duck, a symbol of love and harmony, reflecting the combination of tea and coffee.
Good Luck and Goodbye
Good luck and goodbye Hong Kong – I think it is unlikely that I will see you again.
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