Table of Contents
2 WEEKS IN JAPAN - WHAT THE EAST CAN TEACH THE WEST
Many of my previous posts set out detailed itineraries to inform your own trip planning. The Grand Tour of the East is a bit different. This time, I want to share some of the enlightening lessons I discovered in the East and tempt you to make your own journey there.
My Grand Tour of the East begins with two weeks exploring Japan followed by two weeks visiting South Korea, China (Hong Kong) and Vietnam before ending in Singapore. The journey starts in the capital city of Japan – Tokyo.
Two weeks was sufficient time to allow me to explore three of Japan’s five main islands. From South to North, my journey took me to Kyushu in the south up through Honshu (mainland Japan) and finally all the way up north to Hokkaido. I spread my time between some of Japan’s most attractive cities, starting in Tokyo and travelling to Hiroshima, Fukuoka, Kagoshima, Osaka, Kyoto, Kanazawe and way up north to Hakodate.
Japan
They say that a capital city is the true heart of any country – reflecting its spirit, its memories and also its aspirations. I certainly found that to be true of Tokyo.
I’m not really a fan of big, busy cities. I thought Tokyo might be a bit daunting to visit – crowded, confusing and chaotic. I was pleasantly surprised to find an immaculately clean city – efficient, orderly and welcoming – a microcosm of Japan itself. I was expecting to be glad to leave Tokyo, but instead found myself looking forward to returning one day.
The original elite travellers undertaking their Grand Tour of Europe viewed their journey as a learning exercise. I am approaching my own Grand Tour of the East in a similar way – searching to discover what the East can teach the West.
Japan is a great place to start the tour because of all the countries I visited, it has by the far the most to teach Western travellers. Keep reading to find out more about what West can learn from the East about:
- Etiquette
- Collectiveness
- Religion
- Architecture
- Gardens
- Nature
- Art and Culture
- War & Peace
Etiquette and Collectiveness
From the moment you arrive in Japan – even whilst you are still in the airport – you instantly notice the politeness of its people and the respect they demonstrate for their environment, for each other and for foreign travellers. In this frenetic modern world, the etiquette and collective spirit of the Japanese is just so refreshing.
As you stroll through Japan’s world famous gardens and visit their ancient shrines and temples, the sense of peace and tranquility is all pervading. Even at the height of the cherry blossom season when tourist numbers reach their peak, Japan somehow manages to maintain a sense of calm and facilitate a mindful approach to tourism.
There is so much to see in Japan, but there is one thing that is conspicuous by its absence: rubbish bins. Rubbish bins are simply unnecessary in Japan as everyone expects to take their garbage back home with them rather than chuck it into a rubbish bin that would spoil the look of the environment for everyone else.
Japanese people nod frequently and will often extend their nod to a bow showing even more respect for the person they are greeting. As you enter a building or even just pass by someone in the street, a courteous nod usually greets you. Extending the nod to a bow conveys a deeper level of respect or gratitude. No language skill is required – common courtesy requires no translation and is a language that everyone can easily speak – if they choose to.
Japanese children clean their own school – including the toilets. What a great idea! From an early age, children learn to leave toilet facilities scrupulously clean – just as they would expect to find them. It’s not just about hygiene – it’s about collective responsibility and showing respect for others.
If you have never visited Japan before, then be prepared to be pleasantly surprised by their toilets. At one time, Japan only had squat style toilets – and you do still see those around. More often than not though these days, you will be delighted to encounter toilets with programs for every modern convenience you could ever dream of (if you dreams revolve around that sort of thing?). Heated seats are now pretty standard. You will also often find privacy buttons which play relaxing music designed to mask any sound you might make whilst relieving yourself that might otherwise disturb your neighbours.
Trains are not only fast and efficient, they are immaculately clean and also quiet. It is considered rude to talk, play music or otherwise disturb your fellow passengers. We boarded the Shinkansen (High Speed) Bullet train at Shin-Osaka station in Osaka and travelled the 30 miles to Kyoto in just 15 minutes. As they always do, the train arrived precisely on time, stopped exactly at our allotted place on the platform and departed precisely 90 seconds later accommodating all 20 of the passengers who were waiting to board.
On the short ferry ride across from the mainland Miyajima Island, it was amusing to watch how Japanese passengers kept a close eye on passengers boarding quickly jumping up to give their seat to an older or less able bodied traveller.
The discipline of taking your shoes off before entering anyone’s home is another way of maintaining the cleanliness of your environment in Japan and showing respect to your host. The shoes off rule applies not only where you might expect – in private homes and shrines/temples – but also in restaurants and tea houses. You can also quite safely leave your shoes and umbrella outside the door without any fear that someone else might take it.
Even the way people dress in Japan shows respect and a collectivist mindset. Clothing is typically conservatively coloured (black/grey/navy/white/beige) and the “look” everyone seems to be aiming for is neat, tidy and uniform. No one wants to stand out from the crowd here – or render themselves too obvious if they make any sort of mistake!
Religion - Shrines and Temples
There are so many shrines and temples to visit in Japan that it is hard to pick out the best to visit. If you are not familiar with Japan, it can be confusing at first to tell the difference between a Shinto Shrine and a Buddhist Temple. Many Japanese people worship at both – they are not mutually exclusive. What they have in common is that they embody a peaceful and harmonious way of life that respects nature, mindfulness, and the indisputable value of living in the moment.
Shinto Shrines
Shinto is Japan’s indigenous religion – although it is really more of a way of life than a religion as there is no single founder/deity and no definitive scripture. Shinto focuses on the kami spirits believed to inhabit everything in the natural world – for example trees, mountains, and rivers. The emphasis is on purity, harmony with nature and a respect for ancestors/family.
An easy way to spot a Shinto Shrine is by the large, usually red tori gate at the entrance. Shrine buildings are often very elaborately decorated and have large ropes and pieces of white paper hung up. Sometimes, they also have two guardian lion dogs.
As you enter a Shinto shrine you are expected to bow when entering at the torii gate, then walk to the shrine on one side of the path (the centre of the shrine path is considered to be where God walks). After entering the grounds, the first thing to do is to purify yourself before prayer at the water trough. If you want to pray, first make an offering of any amount of coin – a clean and shiny 5 yen coin is best. Use the rope to ring the chimes to wake the God. Bow deeply twice then clap twice. Pray or make your wish silently, with your hands clasped. Before you leave, bow once more.
You can also have your fortune told by paying the required fee and receiving a paper fortune (Omikuji). The paper you receive may predict either good or bad fortune. If you can decipher the Japanese and find you have a paper predicting bad luck, fear not – you can tie it to a tree branch or structure provided to try to ward off the bad luck.
You can also purchase a wooden votive tablet on which you can write a wish or message and hang in the provided area at the shrine.
Accesssible only via a ferry from the mainland, picturesque Miyajima Island – a much visited UNESCO World Heritage sight – is home to the majestic Itsukushima Jinja Shrine complete with its oft photographed dramatic Torii Gate that appears to be floating on water at high tide. The crowds in peak season may well be enough to put you off paying a visit in person though.
On the other hand Heian Jingu Shrine (Shrine of Peace) in Kyoto is particularly worth visiting in the peak season for the magnificent cherry blossom in the surrounding gardens. The Heian Jingu Shrine was built in 1895 to commemorate the 1,100th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto (once Japan’s capital), there are several shops in Kyoto which hire out the traditional kimono dress, so you may well also be able to enjoy watching as the Japanese admire the ephemeral cherry blossom dressed in all their finery.
Cherry Blossom - Japan’s Unofficial National Flower
It is impossible to think about Japan without visualising cherry blossom? We were lucky enough to visit during the middle of April when the cherry blossom was in full bloom. It is a rare and beautiful sight which appears with reliable upredictability and lasts for only two short weeks before the pale green leaves begin to emerge and camouflage what little blossom remains on the branches. All too quickly, the trees shower their pale pink confetti indicating that the show is soon to come to an end.
So treasured is the illusive cherry blossom that there are apps. to track the flowering season – Sakura Navi and Sakura Date are supposed to be reliable.
The cherry tree is such an appropriate symbol for Japan. The illusive blossom season is a poignant reminder to live mindfully, appreciating the beauty of fleeting moments rather than rushing through life and allowing them to pass you by. It is hard to think of a tree that sums up the nature of the Japanese people better than the cherry tree.
Buddhist Temples
In contrast to Shinto Shrines, Buddhist Temples often have a very large gate structure with a roof and house statues of gods or other figures inside. Five storey pagodas are often found in the temple grounds. The five levels represent (from the bottom up) earth, water, fire, wind and finally space at the top. These five elements represent the five fundamental elements of the universe which are so deeply rooted in the Buddhist ideology. Inside the temple, there will always be an elaborate golden Buddha statue.
A different etiquette applies to visiting a Buddhist Temple which it is polite to observe. You should dress modestly (covering your shoulders and knees), remove your shoes and your hat and observe the peaceful silence. Once inside, you should never take direct photos of the Buddha or any of the other figures and you should ask for permission before taking any photos. It is also a gesture of respect to leave a donation after your visit.
Tochoji Temple in Fukuoka was built in the early ninth century by the famous Buddhist priest Kukai (Kobo Daishi) after his return from China. Its name means “a temple that reaches far to the East” and it is said to express Kukai’s wish for Buddhism to spread from Fukuoka in the West to the East of Japan.
The temple features a five-storey pagoda that is said to contain a bone of the historical Buddha Shakyamuni.
The temple is best known for its huge Buddha statue, the Great Buddha of Fukuoka. Note that this photo was taken from a poster outside the temple – no photos are allowed inside.
Another point of interest is the Jigoku or Hell Experience where you walk through a long dark corridor (symbolisinghell) searching for a ring which is connected to the statue of Buddha. If you manage to locate it, one pull will make your wish come true.
Japanese Architecture
Japanese architecture also has much to teach a visitor from the West. Some of the best examples contain sliding doors and walls made of transparent sheets of shoji paper attached to a lattice frame. The design enables room layouts flexible and to allows the occupant to change perspectives easily and frequently – always soothing for the mind and spirit. Nijo Castle in Kyoto – a UNESCO World Heritage Sight – has some good examples.
The best examples of Japanese houses also have meticulously maintained internal gardens – designed to be observed through the walls that slide open to reveal them. Grand gardens crammed with bonsai trees, flowers and strategically placed stones invite the onlooker to shift mindsets, to look at things from a different point of view or simply to engage in a peaceful contemplation of nature which is forever changing and reinventing itself.
Japanese furniture is also designed for flexibility- most of it can simply be folded up and easily moved to a different place or room.
The Nomura-ke Samurai Heritage Residence in Kanazawa complete with its intricate internal gardens is a fine example of Japanese architecture at its very best. Remove your shoes and feel the cushioned cool of the practical tatami floor matting beneath your feet as you tread gently, pondering on the design and workmanship involved in creating the house and its magnificent garden flourishing in such a confined space as you walk.
Another fine example is La Maison Goten in Kagoshima which also has the magnificent Iso Gardens (or Sengan-en) surrounding it against the stunning backdrop of the awesome active Sakurajima Volcano. If you ever need to be reminded of the ultimate power of nature over the ego of man, then this is the place to come.
Japanese Gardens
Internal gardens contained within a house are beautiful, but to appreciate the symbolic power of the Japanese garden, you really have to visit one of the grand gardens for which the country is so famous. Whilst the grand gardens of the West (with their topiary, formal hedges, flower beds and manicured lawns) sought to show the power of man over nature, Japanese gardens are designed to showcase the power of nature to bring harmony and peace to man and also to remind us that nature will always outlast the human hand that attempts to shape it.
The top three Japanese gardens are:
- Kairaku-en located in Mito was one of the first private gardens to be opened to the public – a novel concept which eventually led the development of public parks.
- Kōraku-en in Okayama showcases the scenic promenade (“Kaiyu”) style of gardening. The visitor is guided along paths connecting lawns, ponds. hills and streams providing a new perspective at every turn.
- Kenroku-en in Kanazawa – an Edo-period garden which draws its name from the six features believed to be required of a perfect garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, abundant water, antiquity and scenic panoramas.
A Japanese garden invites you to walk into a different world where you can linger, look and learn, simultaneously soothing your mind and soul. Allow the garden to guide your mind moving you from the mundanity of everyday life to a higher level of consciousness.
Stroll gardens like Kōraku-en invite you to change your perspective as you turn every corner. Look down as well as up and enjoy the unexpected changes in view created with purpose – to awaken your mind.
Dry gardens such as the Ryoan-ji Temple Rock Garden in Kyoto offer the visitor an alternative approach to gardening. Fiifteen rocks are very carefully arranged on white gravel and strategically placed so that only fourteen can be seen from any vantage point. The gravel is carefully raked into patterns by the monks every day – an example of the meditative practice of finding peace and tranquility in the performance of everyday menial tasks.
The visitor is invited to sit and contemplate the rocks which prompt some precious moments of mindful meditation. Zazen (sitting meditation) is fundamental to Buddhism. The aim is to allow the mind to be present in the moment without being preoccupied with thoughts or judgments.
The internal Iso Gardens at Kagoshima are designed along similar lines.
Japanese gardens are also rich in symbolism – many plants have special meanings. Bamboos signify truth. Pine trees convey longevity.
Wabi Sabi
Many Japanese gardens embody the concept of wabi sabi, a concept which embraces the beauty of imperfection, impermanence and the natural ageing. process. The human pursuit of seeking perfection rarely leads to contentment and is more likely to result in frustration and disappointment as it is very rarely achievable in real life. By contrast, wabi sabi reminds us that there is in fact much beauty in imperfection and that the acceptance of it can arguably yield much greater satisfaction than the pursuit of perfection ever could.
Japanese gardens often contain tea houses. In contrast to grand Western gardens that are usually built around a grand house, in Japan, the garden is the main attraction and any buildings within it are merely an incidental enhancement. Tea houses are often humble wooden buildings likely to be in some need of repair here and there. The tea houses are there for a reason – to remind the visitor of the beauty of to e importance of wabi sabi. The simple wooden tea house in the grounds of Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto is a perfect example.
Tea houses are a vital part of Japanese culture. The tea ceremony is not just about drinking a nice cup of tea. The ritual of carefully preparing the tea, pouring it delicately into pretty china cups and serving it with care embodies the Japanese principles of living harmoniously and showing respect for traditions, time and for one another.
The Japanese love of wabi sabi gave rise to the process of Kintsugi – the art of repairing broken pottery with lacquer mixed with gold. Kintsugi views breakage not as an end but as a new beginning – how very enlightening.
As you stroll around a Japanese garden, amuse yourself by looking out for examples of asymmetry, roughness, simplicity and fluidity. Learn to appreciate paths which have been deliberately laid unevenly in places. Notice and embrace the odd dead branches purposely left in place for a while to exhibit the ever changing face of nature and the passing of the seasons.
If you only have time to visit one of the top 3 Japanese Gardens, then choose Kenroku-en – especially if you are fortunate enough to be able to time your visit to coincide with the cherry blossom season. It is a truly magical place which absorbs the inevitable crowds seemingly effortlessly. On the day we visited, it was raining – but that somehow seemed only to add to the garden’s beauty. The garden is meticulously maintained with countless hours spent hand trimming the many trees into shape by gardeners perched on long ladders.
Admire the dappled light through the tree canopy. Embrace the moss that would have been scraped off in a Western garden but here is left to creep slowly over the rocks, keeping the garden delightfully peaceful.
If you have time for one more garden, consider the easily accessible Hama-rikyu Onshi-teien Garden in the heart of downtown Tokyo’s flashy Ginza District. The garden is all that remains of a shogunal palace that once extended into the area now occupied by Tsukiji Market. The main features are a large duck pond with an island that is home to a charming tea pavilion, as well as some wonderfully manicured trees (black pine, Japanese apricot, hydrangeas etc), some of which are hundreds of years old.
The Value of Nature - Onuma National Park
The Japanese have their own way of enjoying the natural world. Once you leave the cities and get out into the countryside, you can really begin to appreciate their approach to a country walk. Whereas you will often hear Westerners bragging about how many miles they covered, how high they climbed or how many hours they managed to hike for, the Japanese are content simply to walk slowly and appreciate their surroundings – no superlatives are required.
As they walk, they walk, they may well use the time out in nature to contemplate a koān. A koān is used Zen Buddhism to show the inadequacy of logical reasoning. Defined literally, koān means “public matter for thought” – or in other words, a riddle that has no solution.
Some examples of a koān are:
“What is the colour of the wind? “
“What is the sound of the mountain?”
“What is the sound of one hand clapping!”
A lovely place to ponder the answers to riddles such as these is Onuma National Park in Hokkaido. You can linger for ages here appreciating the sights and sounds of nature all around you. It is a quiet and peaceful place – perfect for happily losing yourself in thought for a while. If you can’t work out all the answers, there is no need to worry – tomorrow is another day and you can simply start over and enjoy having another go – there is no rush!
Japanese Art and Culture
Japanese art and culture are yet another area where the East has much to teach the West. In Japanese art, great value is attached to space. Space and emptiness allow room for possibilities to develop. An empty space represents a valuable opportunity that invites creative thought. In complete contrast to the FOMO (fear of missing out) that preoccupies many from the West, the Japanese are skilled in the practice of JOMO (joy of missing out) and deliberately leave space in their art to convey this.
Sumi-e
Sumi-e is a Japanese art form that uses simple monochrome ink painting with black ink (sumi) applied to white paper (e). It is simple and spontaneous and aims to capture the essence of a subject rather than focusing on realism. The paintings are minimalist, leaving plenty of space to convey the potential for creation.
Gold Leaf
The painstaking art of gold leaf is another example. Gold leaf starts with a lump of pure gold the size of a 10 yen coin, which is rolled to the size of a tatami mat, as little as 0.0001mm thick. The gold leaf is cut into squares of 10.9cm – the size used for mounting on walls, murals or paintings – or then cut again for gilding on lacquerware or pottery.
Kanazawa makes over 98% of Japan’s gold leaf. The Sakuda Gold Leaf Company in Higashiyama (Kanazawa) is a great place to have a go at the process yourself in a chopstick gilding workshop. Even their toilet walls are lined with gold!
The famous Golden Pavilion in Kyoto is covered with gold leaf.
Geisha Girls
Japanese Geisha Girls are female performing artists highly trained in the traditional Japanese performing arts such as dance, music and singing. Their distinctive appearance is characterised by the decorative kimono, traditional hairstyles and oshiroi make-up. Their training is long and arduous and they maybe why the numbers of geisha girls are declining these days. but you can still see them on the streets of Kyoto and Kanazawa.
Probably the best way for a traveller to see them in person is to time your visit to Japan to coincide with the annual geisha dance show- the Miyako Odori. This traditional performance features geiko and their maiko apprentices and is held at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theatre in Kyoto each April.
Origami
Origami – the ancient traditional Japanese art of paper (“kami”) folding (“ori”) – is another great example of the simplicity and mindfulness of Eastern art. With careful precision, a single sheet of paper can be intricately folded to create a wide variety of shapes and complex three dimensional structures.
Ochanomizu Origami Kaikan in Yushima, Tokyo is a fascinating free museum dedicated to this ancient art form and well worth a visit if you are spending a few days in Tokyo. There is a floor dedicated to an exhibition of some of the most intricate examples as well as a shop where you can watch the art of paper folding in practice and purchase books and papers so you can have a go yourself at home. There is a paper making/dyeing workshop on the 4th floor and – if you time your visit right – you can even join a workshop and learn the craft from a master practitioner. Check out their website for further details.
Here is a fun piece of origami – moving lips that you can easily make at home.
War and Peace
The painful history of Hiroshima and Nagasaki left an indelible and lasting impression on the Japanese. A visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum will leave you in no doubt about the horrors of nuclear war and strengthen any visitors commitment to world peace – however illusive that may seem in today’s troubled world.
It is impossible not to be moved by the museum’s collection of charred remains that once belonged to innocent children in Hiroshima before the bomb was dropped on them.
Learning the Lingo
To finish on a lighter note – a few words of Japanese go a long way and are received with much appreciation by the Japanese. Being prepared to learn a little of the lingo beyond the basic multilingual body language really helps you to settle in and make friends in Japan. Try:
- A-ri-ga-to – Thank You
- S-yō-na-ra – Goodbye
- Hai – Yes
- Ko-ni-chi-wa – Hallo
- Kanpai! – Cheers!
Goodbye for now Japan – please wait for us to come back!
Also very helpful if you take a taxi in Japan!
My Grand Tour of the East continues through South Korea, Hong Kong, Vietnam and Singapore.
You May Also Like:
