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SOUTH KOREA - WAR TORN, RESILIENT, RESOURCEFUL
The closest country to Japan and so the logical next port of call on my Grand Tour of the East is Korea. Although separated only by the Korean Strait, Korea couldn’t be more different from Japan and so has much to offer the inquisitive traveller keen to explore what the West can learn from the East.
My journey to South Korea took me to the bustling global shipping port of Busan, the vibrant capital city of Seoul, the city of Incheon and also to Ganghwa Island – just 2.3 kilometres away from North Korea to which travel is no longer possible. Even in a relatively brief visit, I quickly came to appreciate how the values of resilience, hard work, national pride, enterprise, and resourcefulness have combined to create the success story that is modern day South Korea.
South Korea - War Torn but Resilient
Korea has had a troubled history which has long been dominated by war. Over many years. China, Russia and Japan have all competed to control Korea culminating in Japanese colonisation in 1910. After Japan’s defeat in WW2, the Korean peninsula was divided into two occupation zones across the 38th parallel with the North under Soviet control and the South under US control.
Unresolved tension between the two territories resulted in the Korean War (1950 – 1953) which – despite the enormous loss of life – ended with an unresolved stalemate situation. No peace treaty was ever signed so technically, North and South Korea are still at war with one another. Although longed for by many, the current continuous state of conflict and political tension renders any prospect of a reunification highly unlikely.
In the immediate aftermath of the Korean War, the wrecked cities of war torn South Korea lay devastated with millions of families forever split by the conflict never to be reunited. Far from putting their heads down and grieving for what had been lost though, the response of the resilient South Koreans was to rebuild, work hard and prosper.
During what became known as the Miracle on the Han River, South Korea managed to achieve a period of rapid economic growth and – in less than a generation – transform itself from one of the least developed countries in the world into the democratic, developed, modern country we can enjoy visiting today.
In sharp contrast, North Korea remains closed to the rest of the world governed by a totalitarian dictatorship which does not even allow its citizens access to the internet. Not even google maps can reach North Korea. If you look at Google maps, it will seem as though there are no roads there – but of course, that isn’t the case.
Busan - United National War Memorial
Busan is home to the only United Nations War Memorial in the world. It is hugely moving to stand and watch the UN flag being raised (as it is each day) as you read the names of all the young lives lost from so many countries during the Korean War. I was proud to see the United Kingdom flag flying there amongst those from all the other countries who fought to preserve Korea’s freedom.
Ganghwa Island Peace Observatory
Nowhere is the split between North and South Korea more palpable than the closely guarded demilitarised zone (DMZ) between the two territories which can be clearly viewed from the Ganghwa Island Peace Observatory. After passing through the very strictly controlled checkpoint at the border (don’t forget to bring your passport), you can look out across the Han River and observe the camouflaged villages in North Korea and the deserted beaches all along the coastline that no one is now allowed to visit. The railway that used to provide a link has been destroyed by North Korea. Scarily, on rainy days, mines are floated down the river that flows all the way to Seoul and have to be intercepted and disposed of.
Koreans had to be resilient to survive and prosper in the aftermath of war and to continue to flourish today despite the ongoing political tension. Military service has been compulsory for all male citizens of South Korea between the ages of 18 and 35 since 1957. Women are not required to perform military service, but they may voluntarily join the military.
It was a sombre moment as I pinned up my own prayer for peace along with all the others at the Peace Observatory and reflected on the hardship that Koreans had to face as a result of political tensions and war.
National Pride, Ying and Yang
Everywhere you go in South Korea, the fierce national pride of the people is evident and has contributed to the inner strength that has enabled them to triumph over occupation, war and poverty.
The taegeuk motif in the centre of the South Korean flag denotes the harmony between negative forces (yin – blue portion) and positive forces (yang – red portion). The Korean philosophy of life derives from a belief that everything in nature is created and evolves through the interaction of yin and yang.
Yongheunggung Palace
Dancheong – the art of decorating the ancient Korean places – is another example of the power of symbolism. You can see many examples of dancheong in South Korea, but Dancheong Decoration at Yongheunggung Palace is one of the best.
The colours used in dancheong are not merely decorative – they also hold significant symbolic meanings representing different directions, seasons and elements which together convey an overall sense of harmony and balance.
The core colors are:
- blue/green (east, wood, spring, stability, harmony, and growth)
- red (south, fire, summer, passion, energy, luck, and vitality)
- yellow (centre, earth, royalty, wealth, and nobility)
- white (west, metal, autumn, purity, honesty and innocence)
- black (north, water, winter, mystery, seriousness, and death
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul is arguably one the largest and most beautiful and a great place to admire the beauty of Dancheong.
Specific flowers also hold symbolic meanings:
- Lotus flowers represent purity, nobility, and the sublime
- Peonies symbolize prosperity, beauty, good fortune and wealth
- Peonies and roses together symbolizse wealth, honor, and a long spring.
Understanding the symbolism gives a greater appreciation of the underlying psyche of the Korean people and helps to explain their innate resilience which has helped them to triumph against the odds.
It was a privilege to stand in the centre of Gyeongbokgung Palace admiring the traditional Hanbok national dress (which allows the wearer free admission). Thank goodness these ancient palaces withstood the ravages of war and remain a national treasure that can still be admired today.
It was also at Gyeongbokgung Palace that the Korean alphabet, Hangul, was created in 1443 by King Sejong during the Joseon Dynasty. Prior to Hangul, Korea used Chinese characters (Hanja) which weren’t always suitable for Korean sounds, making literacy challenging. Korea remains proud to have a language all of its own.
Traditions endure – and nowhere more so than in South Korea. Watching a traditional dance show is a privilege.
Resourcefulness - Harnessing the Power of Kimchi and Ginseng
In a country where winters are long, cold and harsh and fresh produce is scarce, the resourceful Koreans created kimchi – their traditional Korean dish. Kimchi consists of fermented vegetables such as cabbage and radish seasoned with salt, chili powder, garlic and ginger. Not only does the fermentation process preserve the vegetables, it also provides a rich source of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The fermentation process also introduces beneficial bacteria that act as a probiotic, which aids gut health.
Furthermore, kimchi-making (known as kimjang) is a deep rooted cultural practice fostering a sense of family and community cooperation and a sense of national identity. Every Korean grandmother worth her salt has her secret recipe for kimchi she can pass down the generations.
Ginseng is another example of South Korea’s admirable resourcefulness. Its temperate climate with cool winters provides ideal conditions for growing ginseng, but expertise in shading, artificial germination and land rotation have given South Korea the competitive edge over the other big producers in China, Canada, and the US. Korea is currently the largest distributer of ginseng in the world and produces the highest quality 1st class ginseng meyer.
Ginseng is known as the “cure all” root. Scientific research continues to confirm all the health benefits that are claimed for it – from relieving stress to preventing flu- but many people take it regularly believing it to be a panacea for all ills. The Ganghwa Ginseng Center is a fascinating place to visit. With the global interest in alternative medicine, healthy eating and food supplements increasing, South Korea is well placed to continue to take advantage of growing export markets.
Enterprise - Chaebols and Education
South Korea’s rapid economic growth has centred on large industrial conglomerates called chaebols. Samsung, SK, Hyundai, and LG are amongst the biggest. These giants catapulted South Korea into becoming one of the largest newly industrialised countries – with a corresponding sharp rise in the average standard of living.
Hard work was also required to transform South Korea. Education is given a very high priority requiring long hours of dedicated study at school followed by a very competitive process to gain entry into the top universities and secure a job with one of the big conglomerates.
Looking Ahead
South Korea’s success story is not without its downsides though and there are a growing number of challenges looming.
Setting high standards for education has helped the economy grow fast and made many people well-educated, but it has also been criticised for putting too much pressure on young people, stopping play and creativity and adversely affecting well being. South Korea has the highest cost of raising a child in the world which is one of the factors leading to a shrinking population.
There is not only a pressure on young people to succeed at school – young women in South Korea are also expected to be beautiful to ensure their success in life. South Korea is often referred to as the cosmetic surgery capital of the world. According to ISAPS, South Korea has a staggering 13.5 cosmetic procedures per 1000 individuals. Estimates suggest that 1 in 3 South Korean women between the ages of 19 to 29 have had plastic surgery.
Space restrictions mean that nearly 25 million people – over half the population – live in high rise apartment blocks.
Also, competition from cheaper products made in China and Vietnam is putting increasing pressure on South Korea’s industry.
Last – but not least – recent political instability with the president being impeached for attempting to introduce martial law shows how fragile the democracy of South Korea is. While we were visiting, we saw and heard loud political demonstrations in the streets of Seoul.
If the past can be taken as a good indicator of the future though, the proud and resilient people of South Korea will undoubtedly pull through.
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