Table of Contents
Itinerary - 3 Weeks in Costa Rica
We spent 3 weeks exploring Costa Rica which was a good amount of time to explore all the best of what this wonderful country has to offer.
Best time to visit Costa Rica
The dry season – “Summer” is from mid-November to April and is considered the best time to visit. It can, be very wet even in the dry season though and humidity is extremely high. In the rainy season, days often start sunny, with rain falling in the afternoon and evening. In the rain/cloud forest, the weather is very iunpredictable and humid at any time of year. The Pacific coast is sunnier than the Caribbean coast.
Top Ten "Must-Dos" for a luxury trip to Costa Rica
- Drink Piña Calada and Pipa Fria
- Tortuguero National Park – canal boat tour (stay at Manatus)
- A nocturnal walk (location unimportant – just do it!)
- Arenal Volcano – Hanging Bridges (stay at Nayara)
- A sunrise birdwatching tour (location unimportant – just do it!)
- Sarapiqui River – White Water Rafting
- Visit Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge
- Lapa Rios Eco Lodge – watch the sunrise – from your own bed!
- Lapa Rios Eco Lodge – enjoy a massage on your private outdoor terrace
- Swim in an infinity pool – overlooking the Whale Tail – Uvita
Where I Stayed
Links to Accommodation Reviews for all the hotels where we stayed on our trip are listed below:
Best Hotel Award
Lapa Rios Eco Lodge was easily the best hotel we stayed in, taking into account both the room, the facilities and the overall experience. Interestingly, it wasn’t the most expensive either. Taking all costs into account (so hotels where full board and all excursions were included can be compared on a like for like basis with breakfast only hotels) our two favourites – Manatus and Lapa Rios – were also the cheapest overall. Nayara was wonderful, but twice the price and Kura was almost three times the price. With travel, you don’t always get what you expect or pay for. Hopefully, this is helpful info. for future travellers.
My Reading List
Find my recommended reading list here. If you have time, I also recommend reading “How United Fruit Company Shaped the World” by Peter Chapman.
My Packing List
Brolly, binoculars, bug spray, hiking boots, good flashlight, waterproof pouch.
For white water rafting: Reefies, rashie
Find more practical packing tips here:
Flora and Fauna
This is just a checklist of what I actually saw – to inspire you to go – but there is potentially so much more to see here! Search for “Flora and Fauna” to find the relevant posts.
Spider monkies
Mariola bees
Bats
Tarantula Spider
Eyelash Tree Viper
Hermit Crabs
Bullet Ants
Red eyed Tree Frog
Pygmy Frog
Black Tarantula Spider
Black River Turtles
Howler Monkies
Spider Monkies
Golden Spiders
Jesus Christ Lizard
Cayman Crocodile
Iguanas
Three Toed Sloth
Red Poison Frog
Dragonfly
Owl Butterfly
Blue Morpho Butterfly
Leaf Eater Ants
Birds
Crested Owl
Rufous Motmot
Hummingbirds
Macaws
Spectacled Owl
Snake Bird
Green Tailed Heron
Spotted Sandpiper
Keel Billed Toucan
Green Macaws
Turkey Vultures
Flora
Heliconia Flower
Walking Palm
Wish I had seen
- A resplendent quetzal, complete with its 3 foot long red tail
- A tapir
- An armadillo
- A glass frog – a tiny, translucent green tree frog which – if you put it on glass – you can actually see its internal organs and observe its heartbeat.
- A hot lips plant – ah well – maybe on the next trip … ?!
Foodie Firsts
Search for “Foodie Firsts” to discover more about Costa Rica’s Foodie scene.
- Quesadillas
- Gallo Pinto
- Pineapple & Banana Smoothie – Totally Tropical
- Fresh fish ceviche
- Guanabana
- Casado Tipico
- Gallos Ventano
- Pipa Fria
- Red Snapper
- Fajitas
- Banana Bread
- Costa Rica Coffee
Useful Websites
Our trip was booked through Round the World Experts who co-ordinated the itinerary I had constructed myself very well – all the ground arrangements and transfers worked seamlessly. Local tour operators in this area are Swiss Travel (who most of our excursions and transfers were booked with) and Costa Rica Vacations (highly recommended by other travellers we talked to). These agents may well be able to offer you more expert local advice than a UK based agent would and possibly a small saving, but wouldn’t be able to book international flights.
Learning the Lingo
Desayuno | Breakfast
Café con leche | Coffee with Milk
Cómo estás | How are you?
Estoy bien gracias | I’m fine, thank you
Con gusto | With pleasure/pride
Tips for Future Travellers
Local Currency
The Costa Rica currency is Colon(es), but US dollars are widely accepted everywhere. We didn’t use any colones on our whole trip, except for spending the change that was given to us when we paid in US dollars.
Final Reflections
This has been such an enjoyable and relaxing trip to a very beautiful and peaceful country. I think Costa Rica would make an excellent choice for a honeymoon destination. Pura vida is a rather over used expression here and you do get a bit tired of hearing to by the end of three weeks, but it really does sum up my overall impression of the country very well. The direct translation is “pure life”, but in Costa Rica, pure vida is used as a greeting, a thank you, you are welcome or simply to express that something is awesome. It’s a quick way of summing up an expression of peace between one another and an attitude to life in this – one of the happiest nations in the world. The country has its problems, like all others, but the Ticos like to focus on all the positives instead of their fears or worries. Pura vida sums up their general outlook on life and symbolises Costa Rica’s ethos of moving forward and simply enjoying life.
The Ticos I have met all seem to have a sunny disposition and there is good reason for that – Costa Rica is an oasis of calm in an otherwise troubled part of the world:
- Their country is crammed with ecological riches
- Educational, sanitation and health standards are very good,
- The standard of living (for the most part) and life expectancy are high
- There is political stability backed by democracy.
My parting thought:
“If history continues, power will reside in societies that have considered their resources, not those that have spent them.” The Quetzal and the Macaw – David Rains Wallace. From what I have seen, Costa Rica seems to be doing a pretty good job of making the most of its natural resources, protecting biodiversity and benefitting from tourism in a sustainable way – long may it last…
Read my full trip to Costa Rica:
Costa Rica – Pura Vide
Costa Rica – Pura Vide. What is it all about? It’s time to join me on a three week trip to find out …
Costa Rica What to Pack
Costa Rica – What I’m Packing for a Three Week Trip. All the essentials and what you need to make sure to take to get the most out of your trip.
Arrival in Costa Rica – An Infinite Paradise of Possibilities
Arrival in Costa Rica – The start of a three week trip. An infinite paradise of possibilities beckons, starting with San Jose, Alajuela and a welcome drink of Pipa Fria.
Accommodation Review – Xandari Resort & Spa – Alajuela
Where to stay in Alujela – Xandari Resort & Spa Accommodation Review Xandari Resort & Spa Alajuela has 24 spacious architecturally designed villas nestled on…
Alajuela to Tortuguero
The transfer from Alajuela to Tortugero took all morning – but what a lovely way to spend it. We drove past banana plantations, fields of papaya, coconuts and plantains learning a little about the beautiful country that is Costa Rica (Rich Coast) as we travelled.
Salut Manatus!
Our base in the Tortugero National Park is the Manatus Lodge. Access is via boat transfer only – and let’s hope they keep it that way!
Tortuguero to Volcan Tenorio National Park
Guess what – it rains in a rainforest! Last night, it rained pretty well all night. It hammered on the tin roof of the lodge for all it was worth, building up to a crescendo drum beat for a few deafening minutes before petering out to a bit of a tap dance and a finale of sprinkles and tinkles in the gutters. Then silence, filled only by the constant hum of the air con which intermittently halted as the electricity cut out.
Accommodation Review – Manatus Hotel – Tortugeuro
Peace and comfort in the middle of the rainforest. – Manatus Hotel is the exclusive way to enjoy remote Tortugero
Celeste River National Park – Walk with the Eyes of …
This afternoon, I am visiting the Celeste River National Park aiming to walk with the eyes of a tour guide and see if that helps me to spot wildlife I would otherwise have missed. Come and walk with me and see what I discovered …
Rio Celeste – Un Mundo Differente, Un Mundo Fascinante
Established as a National Park in 1995, Rio Celeste is in the cloud forest region. A massive 3.7 metres of rain falls here a year – around six times more than the UK – and that sometimes feels very wet! A legend tells that after God was done painting the sky, he washed his brushes in the river that now bears the name of Rio Celeste – Light Blue River. It was worth a 4 hour hike to see how beautiful this looks in real life.
Accommodation Review – Rio Celeste Hideaway Hotel – Celeste River
Rio Celeste Hideaway Hotel is a small resort-style, ecologically-conscious hotel right in the centre of the lush cloud forest of Rio Celeste in Volcan Tenorio National Park. You can walk down to the beautiful blue river directly from the hotel.
Hola Arenal – Mucho Gusto Amigos!
A warm welcome at Nayara Springs and the return of the sun enticed us into sampling a Caribbean fashion cocktail (7 year old Centenario rum, coconut water infused with rice, cinnamon and orang peel, orange syrup and angostura bitters) and spending the rest of the day doing little more than exploring everything this very beautiful resort has to offer – see the accommodation review for all the details.
Arenal Volcano National Park – En Armonía con la Madre Naturaleza
When you have had a shower outside in the rain and an open air bath on your balcony (safely concealed by the jungle!), it seems fairly pointless to wear an uncomfortable rain coat to go on a hike. Skin is waterproof after all? So today, I carried nothing except my camera and didn’t let the rain bother me at all. I was feeling rather in harmony with Mother Nature (en Armenia con la Madre Naturaleza) and excited to explore Arenal Volcano National Park.
Caño Negro Rio Frio River – A Veritable Noah’s ark
Cano Negro Rio Frio River We took another tour with Aventuras Arenal today to explore the Cano Negro River area. Learning the Lingo We were…
“Away Away Away Away, Tico, Tico” – Arenal Volcano to Bajos del Toro
Leaving Nayara Springs for Bajos del Toro It was tough to leave Nayara Springs. Some of the best wildlife we saw was right in the…
Accommodation Review – Nayara Resort Spa and Gardens – Arenal Volcano
Nayara Resort Spa and Gardens – Accommodation Review Nayara has been recognized as one of the world’s best resorts by Travel&Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler and…
“High Five – Pura Vida” – Sarapiqui River White Water Rafting
The next day took us an hour back down the windy mountain road to the Sarapiqui River and a knuckle clenching raft ride on the white water rapids with Pozo Azul Adventures.. These are Class II/II rapids and rough enough to be quite a thrilling ride. You don’t just get a bit wet on this ride, you get completely soaked.
The Oxcart Path to Sarchi
It’s not many trips that offer you a bare knuckle ride two days in a row. Yesterday, we were expecting adventure. Today, we were expecting a quiet drive to the colourful little town of Sarchi about an hour or so from El Silencio.
Accommodation Review – El Silencio Lodge and Spa – Bajos del Toro
El Silencio Lodge & Spa is located in picturesque Bajos del Toro on a 500-acre private cloud forest reserve flanked by the Juan Castro Blanco and Poas Volcano National Parks.
Bajos del Toro to Osa Peninsula
We set off at 10.30 from Bajos del Toro on a cool, wet morning and arrived at San José Domestic Departures terminal a couple of hours later, all set for a short flight to Puerto Jimenez on the Osa Peninsula.
The Idle Traveller …
Dan Kieran’s book “The Idle Traveller” invites you to re-assess what you are searching for when you travel. He urges you to bin the travel brochure, glide rather than fly, embrace disaster, be epic in your travel pursuits and immerse yourself in the life-changing experience of true journeying. It is an entire philosophy of life rather than just a book about travelling. His philosophy is to slow d
Buen Provecho – Sunrise on the Osa Peninsula
The day started early at 5am with a beautiful sunrise – doubled by its reflection in the Pacific Ocean. The first few minutes just before I wake up are usually like intermediate steps from light to shadow – my vision is dim and my mind not yet fully focussed. This morning, I was woken by the loud shrieks of howler monkies and the din of a million cicadas, then soothed by the sound of the ocean as the sun rose over it. It was the quickest move to sharp focus I can remember – the sunrise was absolutely spectacular – the outstanding highlight of this trip.
Accommodation Review – Lapa Rios Eco Lodge – Lapa Rios
Lapa is the Costa Rican name for the scarlet macaw. When the American couple who founded Lapa Rios first visited the area, they spotted a number of macaws flying across the jungle in tandem, creating a river of red. Inspired by this beautiful image, they named the lodge Lapa Rios – River of Scarlet Macaws. It took them 8 years of searching to find the perfect place to realise their vision of creating an eco lodge in Costa Rica. They poured everything into it – savings, pension pots, heart and soul. It was well worth it – this is such a stunning place.
Marino Ballena National Park – Uvita
Marino Ballena National Park The drive from Lapas Rios to Uvita took just under three hours and brought us roughly half way back to San…
Accommodation Review – Kura Design Villas – Uvita
Kura Design Villas – Accommodation Review Kura Design Villas bills itself as “the most glamorous romantic resort in Costa Rica”. It is a boutique, adults-only…